The DIY Guide

Step 1: Preparation

The first step in the sanding process is preparation. Replace any split or damaged floor boards (ideally with reclaimed wood). If you can’t get reclaimed, use new wood and stain them to match with antique pine stain (see Step 5). Nail down any loose floor boards. Be cautious of any water or electrical pipes hidden underneath the floor. All nails need to be punched down 3–4 mm to ensure they won’t damage the sanding machines. Remove any old staples. 

With parquet flooring stick down any loose blocks.

Step 2: Filling floorboard gaps with reclaimed wood sliver strips ( optional ).

If you are filling the gaps with reclaimed pine sliver strips first run a line of D700 glue down each side of the strip then hammer the sliver down as tight as possible.

Allow a 1–2 hour drying time then use a sharp chisel to level the slivers as close to the floor as possible.
 

Warning: Do not use the sanding machines to level the wood slivers as it will damage them and the repair costs will be charged to the customer.

Step 3: Start the floor sanding process

On old pine floorboards start the sanding process using a 24 grit course abrasive to level the floor. Start in the bottom left hand corner of the room running with the length of the boards and start sanding to the end of the room. Then sand backwards on the same board to back to where you started, keeping as straight as possible.

Next, move the belt sanders rear wheel across to the next floor board to your right and repeat the process.

Once you have sanded from left to right across the room, ending in the bottom right corner, take the machine to the top right corner but face back into the room and start the sanding process again doing the same method up and back working left to right ending in the bottom right corner.

Then go to the top right corner again but facing the machine back into the room to start the whole process again.

Keep repeating this process until the floor looks clean ie the same colour across the whole floor, then its flat and level.

For very uneven floor you can sand the floor at a 45 degree angle instead of running up and down but only using the 24 grit sanding belt.

Once level, re-sand the floor again with 24 grit but running with the boards to start the smoothing process.

Now repeat the same method using a 40 and then 80 grit abrasives, but only sand with the boards, not at 45 degrees.

For sanding around the first four inches of the floor use the edger sander with the same grits choice as on the belt sander.

For the right angle corners use the Tungsten bladed hand-held corner scraper we sell to give a perfect professional finish. It’s ideal for getting into your right angler corners to remove any old paint, adhesives or bitumen with ease

If you have a hardwood or parquet floor you would generally start with a 40 grit belt depending on the floors condition then a 60 and 80 grit belt then finish the floor with our Bona Flexi sander with an 80 and 120 grit belt to achieve the professional finish.

Step 4: Gap filling with filler mix ( optional )

If you are filling the gaps between the floorboards using a filler mixed with sawdust, use the 80 grit sanding dust from the machine's dust bags. By this stage of the process that will be a clean fine dust which is perfect for gap filling.

Mix up the dust in a 2.5 Litre paint kettle with a wall scraper making sure it’s not mixed up to wet as it will take a lot longer to dry.

Apply between the gaps using a wall scraper. Allow to fully dry then re-sand using the 80 grit abrasive then re-sand one last time, finishing the whole floor with the 120 grit abrasives.

For a parquet block type floor again use the 80 grit dust to screed the whole floor (which will fill any gaps around the blocks).

Once it's dry re-sand the floor using an 80 grit then 120 grit on on the Bona Flexi finishing machine.

Step 5: Staining the floor (optional)

If you want to change the colour of the floorboards, professionals first use a specific coloured stain to change the colour of the floor then they seal the floor with a good quality lacquer or hardwax oil. Avoid all-in-one coloured varnish's from DIY stores as they won't have as good a service life as the separate stain primer and lacquer method.

Working across two boards at a time, start at the far side of the room and brush a thin coat of stain onto the boards. Wait a few minutes then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth.

Step 6: Sealing the floor

Give the floor and skirting boards a good hoover, do not wet mop the floors as this will cause grain raising.

Whether you have stained the floors or are keeping them a natural finish, you would then seal them with one coat of waterbased 
primer ( we sell various primers for different looks ) then two or three top coats of waterbased, clear hard wearing lacquer in a sheen that suits.

We are official distrubutors for Bona, Junckers, Loba & Osmo all available at the best prices to you.
 

Extra Matt 9% sheen.
Matt 30% sheen.
Silk Matt 50% sheen.
Gloss 90% sheen.

Alternatively you can use two coats of Osmo Hard wax oils , available in matt, semi-matt or satin sheens.

The recommended application method is using a combination of a 75mm brush and either a oil or lacquer roller kit. The last job is to use a buffer machine to remove any grain rising or to fine buff between the sealer coats.

Step 7: Maintenance. To get the best service life from your floors follow our guide

• Place floor mats or rugs at every door entrance and exit to trap any dirt or grit walked into the house and use protective pads or caps on furniture to avoid scratches and scuffs. Ideally don’t wear shoes indoors.
• Avoid wax, vinegar and 'all-purpose' cleaners, since they dull the floor’s finish.
• Only use a water based, spray buff system to clean your floors. Never wet mop as too much water can penertrate the wood and make it swell up.
• Do not let sand, dirt or grit build up. Vacuum or sweep your floors once every week.